Sat 1/9 Rogue Trader at CZ Info

There is a Rogue Trader at Comix Zone on Sat, Jan 9th. The rubric and rules for the event are as follows:

Total points available to the player = 1850 or less. Not one (1) or more point(s) over. Standard Force Organization.

Players must have the following: Their army, their rulebook and any applicable codices, their own tape measure, dice, templates, and army lists (printed). A printed Army list is a must, and it must be correct (it will be checked and cheating will NOT be tolerated)

Standard Points Available: 135.
+ Bonus Points Available: 12.
= Total Points Available: 147.

The Breakdown:

Battle Points (completely based on battle results) - with 21 - 45 possible points. 13 points for a win, 10 for a tie, and 7 for a loss, with up to 2 bonus battle points available per round (to be determined during the mission). All battle points will be added to the player?s score.

Painting (Judge scored) - 0-20 points. 3 judges will score a player's army on a scale of 0-10. The two highest painting scores will be applied, the lowest will be dropped (if one judge gives you a 6, another gives a 7, and another gives a 5; the player's score would be 13 [6+7, 5 dropped]).

The painting rubric is as follows (each worth 1 point):
1. In your opinion was there honest effort put into painting this army? In your best judgment do you think this person has tried to the best of their ability, skill, and time constraints to get their army painted?
2. Are ALL the models in this army COMPLETELY painted? All models in the army MUST be base coated and have at least 3 different colors present on all of the models. The models do not have to be painted to an expert level, just meet the fully painted with at least 3 different colors to score points for this category?
3. If the army scored the first 2 points, they get an additional point. All models in the army MUST be base coated and have at least 3 different colors present on the entire model as above, and an honest effort to paint the army must have been put in. The models do not have to be painted to an expert level, but they ALL must meet the requirements for the first 2 categories?
4. Are ALL the models in the army based in a pleasing fashion? Are ALL the bases covered in flock, gravel, grass, sand, pavement, stone, etc.?Are they painted to look like a part of a battlefield? Bases do not have to be fancy or immaculate, just nice and neat so that they do not detract from the models.
5. Does the army feature insignia, camo schemes, or other eye-catching items? Does the army feature a cohesive color, camo, and/or army-wide detail schemes? Do these "eye-catching items" make the army seem "cooler"? Did the painter put extra time and effort into picking out the basic details present within the army? (For example, a base-coated marine army with 3 colors and basing that has had Ultramarine omegas [the 'U's] would fit this category).
6. Do the character models and other center-pieces stand out? This category applies to HQ commanders, special officers, veteran sergeants, large vehicles, monstrous creatures or other large models. Was extra time and effort put into paining these models? Did the key larger models and characters get enough attention?
7. Does the army look like and army? Does the force look coherent? Do the various regiments have cohesive colors schemes, markers, insignias, or other features that tie them together? Not all armies are color coordinated, but smaller details such as bases, insignia, loin-cloths, or helmets can help make an army look coherent. Differences such as drastically different basing methods or levels of battle damage can help here. Are some models on desert bases while others are on snow? Are tanks dirty and damaged while troops are clean and pristine? If so, then the army may lack cohesion.
8. Was EXTRA time and effort put into the creation and painting of cool details? This is where unique conversions, basing, banners ,battle damage, badges, and a model's finer details such as a face, come into play. This question goes beyond question 5, asking if not only BASIC details have been picked out, but if extra time was put into some of the more minute details throughout the entire army. This category also counts basic shading and highlighting that may have been applied.
9. In your opinion, was this army painted to an above average standard? Is the ENTIRE army painted to an above average standard? Would you put this army in a display case to show to non-hobbyists and other hobbyists alike as an example of what an army should look like? Do the models have depth to them, meaning does the army employ expert- level shading, highlighting, and painting methods? The bases should not just be flocked, but should have cool items or details on them. This category applies to the ENTIRE army, so if even a unit or two do not fit this category, then the qualifications are not met.
10. Is this army one of the top three present at the tournament? There can be only three armies that get this point, so decide carefully. The judges will agree on which three are their favorite armies at the tournament.

Army Composition (Judge and Player scored) - 8-40 points. 3 judges will score a player's army composition on a scale of 1-5. The two highest scores will be applied, the lowest will be dropped. This process will be repeated by each of the player's opponents, applying the two highest on a scale of 1-5, dropping the lowest. The composite score will then be doubled and applied to the player's overall score. (if one judge gives you a 4, another gives a 4, and another gives a 3; the 'judge half' of the player's score would be 16 [4+4 {3 dropped} x 2], and the same with the players' scoring).

****(three notes: first, the 'fluff' of the army does not count here - a 'nob bikers' or a '9 Leman Russ army' list can be 'fluffy,' but in most cases is not fun to play against. Secondly, if a player hands in multiple 1's and 5's for opponents comp scores, they may have to justify their scores to the judges. These scores are subjective, but should be reasonable: do not give players you don't like a "1" and "5"s to your friends. If the judge does find that you are intentionally tanking or boosting players, both the opponent and the player in question may have their scores adjusted or thrown out completely. Third, Comp is not sportsmanship, and the two should not be confused; meaning a player can be great sportsman, while their army can be a 'cheesy, power army' and vice-versa).

Army Composition rubric is as follows:

[1] This army was not fun to play against at all. This army was obviously built to exploit as much of the Warhammer 40,000 rules as possible. This list seems to have been created for the sole purpose of winning at all costs. I would not voluntarily play this army again.

[2] This army was not great to play against. This army was built to exploit some of the Warhammer 40,000 rules, but it could have been a lot worse. This list seems to have been created to win, but it did not take all of the fun out of the game. I would not like to play this army again, but would if I had to.

[3] This army was okay/ good to play against. This army seems to have been built to be competitive, but is also fair in most respects. While not a "power-gamer" army, it does have some powerful units in it. (a good guideline here is if the player has some repeating non-troops units meant to optimize some aspects of their army; such as 3 leman Russes, 2 Land Raiders, 3 Carnifexes, etc in the army. One or two single repeats are ok, but more or choices that repeat 3 times fall into this category). This list seems to have been created to be competitive, but it did not take the fun out of the game. I would play this army again.****(most armies will more than likely fall into this category)

[4] This army was great to play against. This army was built with some competitive spirit in mind, but was primarily built with the friendly spirit of the Rogue Trader in mind. This list seems to have been created to be somewhat competitive, but also had a variety of units (not just a few, repeating non-troops choices) that were not all "power-units." I would like to play this army again if given the chance.

[5] This army was one of the funnest I have ever played against. This army does not seem to have been built to exploit the Warhammer 40,000 rules, and moreover, it has a great variety of units in the army. My opponent army was not maximized for winning, and it seems to have been created to with the friendly spirit of the Rogue Trader in mind. It was not a "power-gamer" army, but fun to play against in all respects. I would love to play against this army anytime.


Sportsmanship (Player scored) - 4-20 points. 3 players will score the sportsmanship of the player on a scale of 1-5. The two highest painting scores will be applied, the lowest will be dropped, and the sum of the 2 highest scores multiplied by 2, representing that sportsmanship is the most important aspect of the Rogue Trader Style Tournament. (if one player gives you a 4, another gives a 3, and another gives a 2; the player's score would be 14 [4+3, 2 dropped]) x 2.

As with the Comp scores, these scores are subjective, but should be reasonable: do not give players you don't like a "1" and "5"s to your friends. If the judge does find that you are intentionally tanking or boosting players, both the opponent and the player in question may have their scores adjusted or thrown out completely. Also, sportsmanship is not Comp, and the two should not be confused; meaning a player can have a really fair and balanced army and can be a bad sportsman, and vice-versa).

Sportmanship rubric is as follows:

[1] My opponent was not fun to play against at all. My opponent was not fun at all. He/She complained, used questionable rules, and /or did some shady things with his dice, tape measure, etc. He/She was argumentative and could not work out issues reasonably I would not voluntarily play this person again.

[2] My opponent was not great to play against, but we got through it. M\y opponent was not great to play against, but they could have been a lot worse. I would not seek out this player, but would play them if I had to.

[3] My opponent was okay/ good to play against. My opponent was okay to play against. We may or may not have had a few disagreements, but we worked through them in a mutually agreeable manner. My opponent may have complained some, but was in most respects a descent opponent. I would play this player again voluntarily .****(most opponants will more than likely fall into this category)

[4] My opponent was great to play against. My opponent was great to play against. We may or may not have had a few disagreements, but we worked through them quickly and resolved then in short order. My opponent did not really complain or gloat, and was in most respects a great person to play against. I would seek out this player to play a game in the future, because they made it so much fun.

[5] My opponent was one of the funnest I have ever played against. My opponent was the best! We may have had one or two few disagreements, but we worked through them quickly and resolved then in short order, and so that everyone was happy with the rule. My opponent did not complain or gloat at all, and in ALL respects a really great person to play against. I could only hope to play with this player in the future, and I would always want to recreate the positive and fun environment they created.

Pub Quiz (or Pop Quiz) (Judge scored) - 0-10 points. Each player will receive a 10 question quiz which they will fill out to the best of their ability. Each right question will get the player 1 point, each incorrect answer will not penalize the player. The quiz will be administered between round 2 and 3, and all points earned will be added to the players score. [7 right answers and 3 incorrect answers will net 7 points for the player]. (Most questions will be rules and stats related, and all answers will be pulled from the current Warhammer 40,000 5th edition rulebook and all current codicies.

The above categories will yield between 29 and 115 points.

Bonus Points:

Sportsmanship Bonus Points (player scored) - 0-6 points.
Each player, after round 3, will have a chance to vote on which of one their 3 opponents they consider their favorite. The votes are cumulative, up to a total of 6 points. [1st vote gets the player +1 points, the 2nd vote gets the player a further +2, and a 3rd will get the player a further +3. So if a player gets two votes, then they will receive +3 bonus points (+1 and +2)].

Player's Choice Bonus Points (player scored) - 0-6 points.
Each player, after round 3, will have a chance to vote on which one army they consider their favorite. The votes are cumulative, up to a total of 6 points. [1st vote gets the player +1 points, the 2nd vote gets the player a further +2, and a 3rd will get the player a further +3. So if a player gets two votes, then they will receive +3 bonus points (+1 and +2), but if they receive 5 votes, they still only receive a bonus of the maximum 6 points]. ****Note: votes after the first 3, while not calculated into bonus points, do count as the primary tie-breaker for the Best Army Award, so getting as many as possible is desired.

These two categories will yield between 0 and 12 points.

Total Points Possible: between 29 - 127.

Awards:

(note that a single player can only win one of these awards, and if a player wins multiple awards, they will win their award in the following order: )

Best Overall: Combination of all points. Tie-breakers: Sportsmanship, then Battle Points, then Comp, then Paining.

Best Army: Combination of Painting, Comp, and Player's Choice points (not the total number of votes for Players Choice, just the 0-6 points). Tie-breakers: Player's Choice votes, then Sportsmanship, then Battle Points.

Best Painted: Best painted score. Tie-breakers: Player's Choice votes, then Sportsmanship, then Battle Points.

Best Sportman: Best sportsmanship score. Tie-breakers: Battle Points, then Comp, then Pub Quiz.

Fought the Good Fight: Combination of lowest battle points (45 minus the player's points) and highest sportsmanship scores. Tie-breakers: Comp, then Painting, then Pub Quiz.


That's it.

Just make sure you have two (2) or more printed copies of your army list to give at least 1 to the judges and 1 to have on hand for you and your opponent. You may find it easier to have five (5) printed copies of your army list, as you can give 1 to the judges, and 1 to each of your opponents to keep, as well as 1 for yourself.

If your army list is found to be in error, a judge will decide on a course of action from a warning, to points loss, to expulsion from the tournament. If you have any questions about army lists, please contact myself or Will. You can not go even one (1) point over 1850, it has to be 1850 or less.

Any questions, don't be afraid to ask!

-Dan

Ie there any entry fee for the tournament??

Brian_Horton wrote:Ie there any entry fee for the tournament??

I just found out their is a $10 fee to enter.


Horton

It was nice to meet some of you guys yesterday. I had a very good time. I hope some of you will team up for our event in February. I'll post details shortly.

Will wrote:It was nice to meet some of you guys yesterday. I had a very good time. I hope some of you will team up for our event in February. I'll post details shortly.

This was the first Rogue Trader event I have ever played in. I found it to be very enjoyable and I look forward to others in the future.

-Chuck

I agree the rogue trader was enjoyable I just hope that the local scene can run this instead of having to have an outside organization run it. But I am very thankful to BC Adeptus for running this event.

You would have had a better time if you met ME Will. Everyone needs a little Keebler in their lives.

Tread-Marked Avatar wrote:You would have had a better time if you met ME Will. Everyone needs a little Keebler in their lives.